The most dangerous yet the safest border in the world. The most militarized and the most de-militarized area in the world. The symbol of peace and the symbol of war all at the same time.
Haha. Did I succeed in having a dramatic opening to this blog post. pls tell me i did
Anyway all that drama was not exaggerated. It was a pretty intense experience at the DMZ and I’d like to write about my experience in detail.
At first, I was facing a real dilemma because I’ve heard from others that the DMZ was boring and there’s nothing much to see. They all tell me unless i’m a history or military fanatic, i’m not going to enjoy it. But somehow I felt compelled to go before I leave Korea back to Singapore in two days’ time, because honestly the issue with North has always fascinated me. Going to North Korea is still on my list of things to do, and I’ve watched tons of documentaries and read tons of articles on the North. I guess somehow you could say i’m a little bit of a history or military or international relations etc, fanatic to be so intrigued by all this. So very much unlike what my friends said, I thoroughly enjoyed the DMZ. Glad i went ahead with my instincts and not with what I’m told.
My other issue at first was going alone. Don’t get me wrong i like traveling alone, but I do mean really alone alone. I like to set out alone but i don’t particularly like being alone in a guided tour, something along those lines. So I actually planned to go to the DMZ alone without a guided tour (it’s possible to go Dorasan by yourself, at least) and skip out the ones that i need a tour to go to. But after lots of thinking i decided oh heck a tour is really a much better option in this case for me to know what’s going on and also it’s probably much safer on tour. I made the right choice!
I did a quick search and signed up with Koridoor, mostly because it has good reviews and it’s also the cheapest I’ve found out there for 96,000 won (about $120 SGD) for a half-day tour including the Joint Security Area (you can’t go in without a tour). And they have a tour that starts at 12.30pm HAHAHA perfect. I think the rates are lower than most of their counter parts (usually about 130,ooo won), i think partly because it’s only half day and also some reasons I thought of:
- Meals are not included, you have to buy your own at the restaurant, 7k-10k. You can bring your own meals.
- At the 3rd tunnel, you don’t get to ride the rail down the tunnel, you have to walk on your own.
That’s honestly about it though. And to me it’s worth getting this one over the more expensive ones out there.
So at 12pm i turned up with my passport and saw that most of the tour were made up of huge families from the US and couples. Actually all of them were from US, Europe or Aussie and i was practically the only one from Asia. One dude asked me ‘hey are you Korean’ lol i shld have said yazzzz im from the north or smth
We hopped on the bus with no delays and set out to our first destination: the dorasan station! On the way the tour guide, Sun, gave us some summary of Korea in general and the situation with the North as well as a little about each destination.
Dorasan Station
It was destroyed years ago but restored as part of the Sunshine policy that South Korea had for a while to strengthen connections with the North. This station is used for work purposes to transport materials and goods into and out from the Kaesong Industrial area in the North. It used to allow the South Koreans to travel to the North as well but this was stopped after some dispute.
Essentially it’s pretty much of a ghost station. You can go to Dorasan but you obviously can’t go Pyongyang from Dorasan.
As the tour guide was explaining
Entrance of Dorasan
Something like a ghost station
DMZ souvenir shop lol
There was a ticket counter but i’m not sure where you go when you buy…? I think it only allows you to enter the platform but not actually go anywhere.
Managed to get a decent empty shot when everyone was inside the station
We hung around for about 20 min taking pictures and whatnot, before we piled onto the bus again, this time heading to the Dora observatory.
Dora Observatory
When I was researching for tours, i thought this would be one of the cooler things. It wasn’t, it was actually the least coolest to me lol. It was the place where you can see North Korea and there are telescopes you can peer into to see the North. I didn’t actually look through it maybe that’s why it’s not as amazing to me, but it’s too touristy for me i think?
The photo line before the observatory~ no photos beyond this line.
You could pay to take a look through the telescopes but i’m just like meh nvm. Anyway we were told we can get a closer lookup when we go into the joint security area.
On the way back to the bus, saw a group of army boysssss going to the theatre area. Not sure why.
#HIPSTERRRRRR
We spent another 20 min around this area before getting back on the bus this time to head towards the third infiltration tunnel!
The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel
This was really cool. I didn’t expect it to be this cool but it was cool.
Before going into the tunnel we were led into this room where we were shown a presentation of the 4 infiltration tunnels built by the North to invade the South that were discovered. It is suspected there are many many more tunnels currently undiscovered.
The 3rd tunnel that we visited were coated with coal in an attempt by the North to disguise that they built the tunnel to look for coal. But geographically there is no coal in that area. Lol. Nice try though.
They built 3 concrete walls to stop the North from invading if they still want to try via that tunnel. We could only go until the 1st wall and we can see the second one from there.
No pictures were allowed unfortunately 😦 It was a long way down and it’s pretty steep. Very cooling down there too. Once we reached the actual tunnel it was a bit damp and water leaked at certain places so the helmet became very useful. I also tried the spring water from the fountain they built in the tunnel, it was really fresh LOL. The actual tunnel was very small and i had to duck most of the time. Back pain sia. It was kinda funny cuz throughout the walk i kept hearing clangs indicating people hitting their helmet-covered head against the metal poles along the ceiling. crey.
But it was really fascinating down the tunnel. If you’re up for an exercise, do go down the tunnel. The way up was very tiring as it’s 600m up slope, but it was interesting to go down all the way to the first granite wall, with the knowledge that this was built by the North to infiltrate the South.
Oh yes earlier on i mentioned about some rail down the tunnel. There is another path for people to take the rail down to the tunnel which saves a lot of effort, but that requires booking in advance, and i think some of the more expensive tours may offer that option or have it in their package. It would be nice to go via rail but at the same time, walking through the tunnel was quite an experience.
THey opened the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel up as a tourist attraction as they believe that the North wouldn’t wanna go through this tunnel anymore, too obvious alr. Then again there are so many more tunnels undiscovered i guess they might use one of those :X just hope they don’t use any at all.
We spent a bit more time here. When we were done, we all returned to the bus and the brought us to the next destination, which is the most exciting one: the JSA!
Joint Security Area
The highlight of the trip!
The Joint Security Area (JSA) is the border within the DMZ that allows North and South to come face to face, and also where they hold peaceful conferences.
Before we went to the JSA, the bus stopped to let in an American soldier who then went on to check our passports. I peeked at his list and saw that my name was the only one bolded LOLOL i was like ohhhhh damn is it because of my indonesian passport. Compared to other countries that the other tourists were from, pretty sure Indonesia is the least ‘safe’ country. I say ‘safe’ according to my experience with visas; Indonesia always falls under one of those ‘high risk’ countries and i always need a visa, whereas the other countries usually don’t need visas for a lot of places. Haha.
But anyway no problem. He checked our passports and briefed us a little bit. We will have to take one of their iconic blue buses to go into the DMZ, and we can’t bring any bags into the area, but we can bring cameras and any recording devices.
The bus parked at the JSA Visitors Centre at Camp Bonifas, where we were led into a room to sign a declaration form. It had all the standard stuff there but the most memorable thing for me was the number stating that we cannot scoff, point in the direction of the North or do stuff that may become propaganda material for the North. Haha.
Another US military member went up and started his presentation. We were allowed to take photo or even record the entire presentation.
The presentation was something like a history lesson of the North-South conflict. I found it really interesting though. He went through several main incidents that I hadn’t known before this.
One of them was the story of the Russian who was touring the North Korea side, and decided to defect to the South by running across the border at the JSA. That set off a gunfire battle in which the North soldiers chased him and opened fire. The south retaliated. The thing lasted 30 min approx and two North soldiers were killed along with one South soldier. The Russian is safe in the South side now, I think.
After the presentation on the significant incidents at the JSA, we were brought out to the blue buses. From then on photography ban was in effect and if we were caught we have to delete the pictures.
They brought us to the real deal, the actual border with its conference rooms, and what you see when you google JSA. JSA is actually an entire village that includes all the things i’ve mentioned so far and more, but this is often seen as the main part of JSA as it’s the direct border and you can see the North Korean side clearly from here.
We were then brought into the MAC conference room, one of the blue rooms. It was deathly quiet in this place, but the tour group i was with were chatty so it didn’t feel that bad. We were told that at this point the people standing on the other end of the room are already in the North side of the border. This is actually the only time we can cross the border and actually BE in North Korea, inside the conference rooms where peaceful meetings are held. It’s kinda like neutral peace ground.
We were allowed to take pictures. It wasn’t as tense as I read from other blogs actually, especially since I was aware these soldiers in the room were there to protect us more than anything. On South territory we’re their responsibility and those are South soldiers, so i wasn’t really intimidated. Although I did stand a good distance away after what the tour guide said to stand a little distance away hahahaha. I didn’t want him suddenly taking me down, it’s clear he’s freaking awesome at Taekwondo just by his pose haha. I was more fascinated than anything else.
standing a little way aways… my fringe is the fugliest here but ugh
lady staring intensely
The US soldier also told us that meetings are usually about 2 hours long, but once there was this meeting that lasted 11 hours and they call it the Bladder War. Because nobody dared to stand up for fear that it’s a sign of weakness so everyone just sat there talking for 11 hours. Oh dear. After that they decided every 2 hours through a meeting, there has to be a break.
Hahaha.
We were brought out and back to the top of the staircase outside the Freedom House and reminded not to point at North Korea area. They were watching as we speak, from their own ground. I heard that once you step on DMZ ground the North will have your info, how you look, your passport details etc and technically you’re in their database now lol. Like for them to check if you’re a spy or anything like that. 
So yeah it’s wise not to do anything stupid while at the border. No YOLO-ing man.
While taking photos the soldier pointed out that the North is watching us right now and if you look closely you can see a North soldier at the top of their building. The soldiers over at the South refer to him as Bob since they don’t know his name…….. crey
The soldiers here are all in Taekwondo position. The ones with their bodies half hidden behind the building are in that position to limit their target in case there’s an attack. There are really high expectations for the soldiers at these borders in terms of capabilities and record, because of the sheer risk and significance of their duties at the border. They also need to face their enemies everyday sometimes up close, so a very strong character is needed. Physically as well there are some standards required. It truly is as they say, “In Front of Them All”.
Once done, we lined up once more and were led back to the bus where we finished the rest of the tour of the JSA.
Propaganda Village
We stopped by to get a clearer view of the Propaganda Village (how the South calls it), also known as the Peace Village (how the North calls it).
Its official name is Kijong-dong. Basically it’s an entire village set up by the North as a way to lure the South to join them in the North. From a distance the village looks bright at night with its blue roofs and speakers that broadcasted propaganda (stopped in 2004). The plan was to make farmers and people near the DMZ at the South area who might be feeling disgruntled with their current life, to simply step over and join the North. They will find however, if they cross over, that the entire village was a gimmick. No one actually lives there. The South has been observing and found out that the buildings were hollow and the windows had no glass.
At this point we were surrounded by communist North on three sides except where our backs are turned towards the south. The irony is that we can take pictures in the direction of the north, but not towards the south. We can’t take pictures of the checkpoints but we can capture the villages and the view of the North. 😡
Looking to the North
Propaganda Village from afar, marked by one of the tallest flagpoles in the world
A little closer up. You can see the outline of the flag
The North side looks remarkably peaceful, almost downplaying the real tension and unrest that lie between the two sides.
We passed by the place where the Axe Murder incident happened as well. Basically the South wanted to cut down a tree that was blocking the view from one checkpoint to another, but while they were at it the North attacked and they were overnumbered. As a result soldiers from the South perished. Some territorial changes happened because of that and also now the North and South were even more strictly divided. In the past JSA was filled with both North and South together (hence the name Joint Security Area), but now they drew the line even within the JSA and you can’t cross it. The Russian defector incident was the one time they broke the rules and crossed to the South side while chasing. And of course, the tunnels they built.
We also passed by the Bridge of No Return. This bridge is exactly what its name suggests. At the end of the Korean War they used the bridge to exchange prisoners of war between the territories. It’s the only time either side were allowed to make a choice. It’s said that a lot of prisoners of war from the North did not choose to return to the North, but i’m not sure how much of this is true. Anyway, once you make your choice, there’s no backing out. You can’t cross back ever unless you try to defect.
We didn’t get down so we could only take photos from the bus.
That was our last stop and the blue bus made its way back to the visitors centre for people to buy souvenirs. I’m not a souvenirs person especially not tacky ones, but afterwards i found out from another person who was traveling alone as well that he bought North Korean wine. Hahaha. I’m not sure how that would taste.
And that was it! They brought us to a Korean restaurant to eat and then back to Seoul we go~
Very interesting tour. If you’re having doubts, just go for it. Of course it depends on perspective. I like these kinds of things and have always been fascinated in the North, so it was amazing for me. Nevertheless even if you’re not particularly interested in such things, going into the JSA is really an eye-opener. I’d understand how Dorasan and the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel may seem mediocre and boring to those who are less interested, but going into the JSA is entirely a different experience and you get to feel first-hand the tension between two sides. Which is something that is fascinating despite the level of interest you have!
Anyway, I will leave the details of the tour I joined for reference!
Type: DMZ/JSA & 3rd Tunnel Tour
Agency: Koridoor
Price: 96,000 won / person
Duration: Half day ; check their website for schedules. They offer both morning and afternoon tour timings. Mine was 12.30pm – 7.30pm
How to book: Go to the schedule page and find the dates you’d like and check if they offer tours on that day. When you click on the timing you want you can see if there’s space and then book if there is. They will send you an email asking for a scan of your passport and also for transfer of the money. They will send a receipt with all the necessary details when you’ve done both.
Koridoor’s prices are honestly really competitive, just by a quick search all the other tours are charging around 130,000 won which is a lot more expensive. Tour guide at Koridoor was also good in English.
Go for it! 😀 It’s worth it!
darmawanders 